Friday, Jan. 21
Before we leave Mildura, we drive to the shore of the Murray River. This is one of the biggest rivers in Australia and it is slowly flooding, but a peak is not expected for another week. At some points the front of the flooded area is 20 kilometres wide. We see the side-paddlewheel river boat, The Rothbury, coming in to dock. I get a good picture as it turns in the swollen river.
We share the driving today. We experience a pot-pourrie of landscape in our short stint: dead-straight road for miles, sagebrush, corn fields, fruit trees and grape vines, rolling hills, desert, and the odd fluffy cloud. On the road we see more dead kangaroo, two dead fox, and a weasel that runs across in front of me and, although I felt nothing, he is either dead or has a very sore tail. At Renmark, we see the first fruit-laden citrus tree.
The Murray River has a steep escarpment on the far side. No flooding there. It turns south at Morgan and we cross it for the last time at Blanchetown as we continue west into the Barossa Valley.
We will stay in Tanunda for two nights so we can visit the vineyards and cellars tomorrow. The room is extremely big and there is a pool with “naturally”-heated water. The downtown is only a kilometre away, so we take a walk. The houses are the typical square-stone, fretwork decorated verandas, products of the late 19th or early 20th centuries. Most have tin (galvanized-steel) roofs with gutters and rain-water tanks connected. Obviously, they do get rain, but have long periods of drought. Everything is very “neat!” The downtown is about four blocks long on the main street. Since getting away from the city and east coast, the towns have begun to look alike. The huge churches are mostly varying Protestant denominations. There is a Presbyterian and an Evangelical Presbyterian one in this town. Quite different than South America.
I have a swim when we return and change into my long “low-cut” Brisbane $15 cotton dress. It is great for dinner-out or to wear to the beach over my bathing suit. And it doesn’t wrinkle in the suitcase. Bonus!
The braised lamb shank I have reserved as they only have one left is tasty, but I prefer the stewed-stuff from N.Z.
The motel owner suggests some wineries we should not miss tomorrow.
The Royal Doulton fountain in Mildura.




The paddle-wheeler Rothbury.
A typical lunch with the Eski (chilly-bin) on the table.

The local stones used in construction in Tanunda.


The dark green is the width of this hedge! Maybe someday at the back of the 10th tee box.
The Barossa Valley from the lookout.

Saturday, Jan. 22.
The Barossa is a wonderful wine-producing valley. It was actually named “bar rosa” but the locals spelt it incorrectly and so the single “r” and the double “s”. Some of the exported wines include: Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds, Lehmann, and Wolf Blass. Grant Burge and Kellermeister are big in the area. We visit the oldest winery - Bethany - which has vines that are over 100 years old. The sixth generation are the hands-on owners now. I wonder if their kids will keep it going!
Rockford is one of the smaller wineries, but they do export to Vancouver. The valley grows the Grenache grape which is new to me, but then I’m not into much beyond the very ordinary stuff.
At Grant Burge Wines, the lady serving us said she and her husband drove from Vancouver to Calgary last summer. It was obvious by her description that they probably went through Castlegar. Well, of course she remembered it as she was the navigator and she spells it out! This is the first person we have met in our travels who has personally been to our home town.
After visiting cellars of very differing wineries, we return to the first - Bethany - and buy a bottle of shiraz
During the day we go to the Mengler Hill lookout which includes a sculpture park. It looks like the rocks were found right on the hill, but there is no information except a plaque that says there was a sculpture conference here in 2008. From the lookout the whole valley and two towns are visible.
We continue over the hill to Angaston where the mystery of the biking signs along the narrow country roads is solved. There are teams of bikers doing a 30, 50, or 100 km. ride to raise money for Childhood Diabetes Research. Each team must rise $1000 to enter. The ladies I spoke with had grandchildren on one of the teams. They were very proud of the kids.
At the cellars of the wineries, as elsewhere in Australia, there is no charge for tastings - and they will let you try five or even more wines.
After our frivolous expenditure of a $20 bottle of wine, I settle for the left-over of last night’s meal and Peter has a take-out pizza for dinner.
The Eagle.

The naked lady lounging on the top of the benches.
This is the same stone as in the building above.

A sculpture in honour of the hard-working Clydesdales titled A Day Off.
The quarry at the Bethany vineyard which was family income for the family before the grapes.
Kate and Kimberly, our friendly hosts at the cellar at Bethany's.

The Chateau restored at a cost of $5 million.

The Barossa is a wonderful wine-producing valley. It was actually named “bar rosa” but the locals spelt it incorrectly and so the single “r” and the double “s”. Some of the exported wines include: Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds, Lehmann, and Wolf Blass. Grant Burge and Kellermeister are big in the area. We visit the oldest winery - Bethany - which has vines that are over 100 years old. The sixth generation are the hands-on owners now. I wonder if their kids will keep it going!
Rockford is one of the smaller wineries, but they do export to Vancouver. The valley grows the Grenache grape which is new to me, but then I’m not into much beyond the very ordinary stuff.
At Grant Burge Wines, the lady serving us said she and her husband drove from Vancouver to Calgary last summer. It was obvious by her description that they probably went through Castlegar. Well, of course she remembered it as she was the navigator and she spells it out! This is the first person we have met in our travels who has personally been to our home town.
After visiting cellars of very differing wineries, we return to the first - Bethany - and buy a bottle of shiraz
During the day we go to the Mengler Hill lookout which includes a sculpture park. It looks like the rocks were found right on the hill, but there is no information except a plaque that says there was a sculpture conference here in 2008. From the lookout the whole valley and two towns are visible.
We continue over the hill to Angaston where the mystery of the biking signs along the narrow country roads is solved. There are teams of bikers doing a 30, 50, or 100 km. ride to raise money for Childhood Diabetes Research. Each team must rise $1000 to enter. The ladies I spoke with had grandchildren on one of the teams. They were very proud of the kids.
At the cellars of the wineries, as elsewhere in Australia, there is no charge for tastings - and they will let you try five or even more wines.
After our frivolous expenditure of a $20 bottle of wine, I settle for the left-over of last night’s meal and Peter has a take-out pizza for dinner.
The Eagle.

The naked lady lounging on the top of the benches.
This is the same stone as in the building above.



Kate and Kimberly, our friendly hosts at the cellar at Bethany's.

The Chateau restored at a cost of $5 million.

Sunday, Jan. 23.
We are really on the outskirts of Adelaide, so we leave at our leisure. I drive as we will be only one hour to the city. We realize that the Santos tour down under is in its final day in town today. We hope we are not delayed too badly. As it takes almost as long to get across Adelaide as to reach it, the slight slow-down as we pass the finish-line area, does not cause any problems in our navigation. As we approach Glenelg, the beach area where we are staying, the traffic thickens. Yes, on a Sunday anyone not watching the final stage of the bike race is going to the beach.
Our motel is still in the Golden Chain, but includes a casino, sports bar, off-track betting bar, and a “bottle shop” - the drive-through liquor store. We get the last room available - Peter phoned last week - and have saved $30 a day as we are supposed to be without a sofa. Well, it is still there and is to be picked-up tomorrow.
I finally get to use the sun-tent I bought in North West Rocks. We wander down to the beach and I stay while Peter goes off to find an Internet café. There is a sandbar about 100 feet off shore and the water between is almost as warm as a sauna. Even beyond, the ocean floor is rippled sand and the water is warm. I am, once again, in heaven. I have a nice swim and return to my lean-to and read. Peter arrives and enjoys the “sights” (Australian beauties in bikinis (eat your heard out, golfing buddies) - he has been rating them!) About 4 p.m. we head back and I shower and change before we go Coles market to pick-up some fruit. We are the last ones in as they close at 5 on Sat. & Sun. It has been a lovely day.
The statue: Immigrants, at the Migration Museum.

A building at the museum.

A building at Rundle Mall.
We are really on the outskirts of Adelaide, so we leave at our leisure. I drive as we will be only one hour to the city. We realize that the Santos tour down under is in its final day in town today. We hope we are not delayed too badly. As it takes almost as long to get across Adelaide as to reach it, the slight slow-down as we pass the finish-line area, does not cause any problems in our navigation. As we approach Glenelg, the beach area where we are staying, the traffic thickens. Yes, on a Sunday anyone not watching the final stage of the bike race is going to the beach.
Our motel is still in the Golden Chain, but includes a casino, sports bar, off-track betting bar, and a “bottle shop” - the drive-through liquor store. We get the last room available - Peter phoned last week - and have saved $30 a day as we are supposed to be without a sofa. Well, it is still there and is to be picked-up tomorrow.
I finally get to use the sun-tent I bought in North West Rocks. We wander down to the beach and I stay while Peter goes off to find an Internet café. There is a sandbar about 100 feet off shore and the water between is almost as warm as a sauna. Even beyond, the ocean floor is rippled sand and the water is warm. I am, once again, in heaven. I have a nice swim and return to my lean-to and read. Peter arrives and enjoys the “sights” (Australian beauties in bikinis (eat your heard out, golfing buddies) - he has been rating them!) About 4 p.m. we head back and I shower and change before we go Coles market to pick-up some fruit. We are the last ones in as they close at 5 on Sat. & Sun. It has been a lovely day.
The statue: Immigrants, at the Migration Museum.

A building at the museum.


Monday, Jan. 24.
We go to town, dropping off the car on the way. As we have read, the entire downtown is within walking distance, much like the main Vancouver downtown.
We get directions to the zoo and walk by the University (huge) grounds and along the river. Unfortunately, it just seems excessively expensive, especially when we just want to see the pandas which will probably cost extra, so we wander back to the Migration Museum. Like Canada, the country is populated mostly by immigrants. In fact, a class of adult ESL students are touring the museum at the same time as us.
As with most Australian museums, personal stories are the core of how the history is brought to life. This is a tiny museum, but still it takes a good hour to go through. I know it is past noon as I am hungry.
We head for Rundle Mall. Subway is as good as anywhere. After lunch we are stopped by the Caribbean style music and a black man with dreadlocks dancing up a storm. We watch as he engages a young boy in a few dance steps as the accompanying keyboard player and drummer play along. Finally, the pole balanced on two coke bottles becomes the focus of attention, but first - adding to the delight and suspense of the audience - the performer does some back-handsprings, then after hesitation, a standing back-somersault. Great clapping - but everyone is awaiting the limbo. We are not disappointed. I will post some pictures so you will see that he is not a tiny man, but he sure is flexible! Even we, along with many others, leave a tip for this performer.
We walk the couple of blocks to the Art Gallery and the South Australian Museum. We plan to meet in 1 ½ hours. I could have spent longer, but the stuff I see is lovely, mostly South East Asian art and artefacts. A young boy about six is coming through behind me and it is very entertaining to listen to his questions and reactions to the pieces. He says that two of the statues appear very angry. He is right. His mom points out that they are fierce men who are guarding the temple (Vishnu & Indra who guard Buddhist temples).
One extraordinary thing that struck me is a blue card beside a particularly wonderful, and large, painting. On the card are the thoughts of school children about the painting. The children are very insightful. The gist of one comment is: Everyone is dressed in black and daddy is not there. He is dead. Mommy looks sad. The boy looks tired and is leaning on her. The girl is brave and even in the rain she is selling flowers to help the family.
We meet as scheduled and get on the free Loop Bus to do a tour of the perimeter of the downtown. Even in traffic it only takes about 20 minutes. Outside the core is green-space. We get off at North TCE and King William where we can get the Tram to Glenelg. It is rush hour and the tram is jammed. We get all the way with nobody coming to sell us a ticket. Yes, there are free rides at the right time!
The walk to the terminal from the motel is less than 10 minutes. We stop, as usual, at Coles on the way to pick-up supplies. We decide to go to the buffet at the motel restaurant. It has a wonderful variety of food from which I can try lots of “good” food. Unfortunately, the desserts are also great, so I come away waddling, but feeling great. One needs to strike when opportunity presents itself.
The Jamaican performer.
We go to town, dropping off the car on the way. As we have read, the entire downtown is within walking distance, much like the main Vancouver downtown.
We get directions to the zoo and walk by the University (huge) grounds and along the river. Unfortunately, it just seems excessively expensive, especially when we just want to see the pandas which will probably cost extra, so we wander back to the Migration Museum. Like Canada, the country is populated mostly by immigrants. In fact, a class of adult ESL students are touring the museum at the same time as us.
As with most Australian museums, personal stories are the core of how the history is brought to life. This is a tiny museum, but still it takes a good hour to go through. I know it is past noon as I am hungry.
We head for Rundle Mall. Subway is as good as anywhere. After lunch we are stopped by the Caribbean style music and a black man with dreadlocks dancing up a storm. We watch as he engages a young boy in a few dance steps as the accompanying keyboard player and drummer play along. Finally, the pole balanced on two coke bottles becomes the focus of attention, but first - adding to the delight and suspense of the audience - the performer does some back-handsprings, then after hesitation, a standing back-somersault. Great clapping - but everyone is awaiting the limbo. We are not disappointed. I will post some pictures so you will see that he is not a tiny man, but he sure is flexible! Even we, along with many others, leave a tip for this performer.
We walk the couple of blocks to the Art Gallery and the South Australian Museum. We plan to meet in 1 ½ hours. I could have spent longer, but the stuff I see is lovely, mostly South East Asian art and artefacts. A young boy about six is coming through behind me and it is very entertaining to listen to his questions and reactions to the pieces. He says that two of the statues appear very angry. He is right. His mom points out that they are fierce men who are guarding the temple (Vishnu & Indra who guard Buddhist temples).
One extraordinary thing that struck me is a blue card beside a particularly wonderful, and large, painting. On the card are the thoughts of school children about the painting. The children are very insightful. The gist of one comment is: Everyone is dressed in black and daddy is not there. He is dead. Mommy looks sad. The boy looks tired and is leaning on her. The girl is brave and even in the rain she is selling flowers to help the family.
We meet as scheduled and get on the free Loop Bus to do a tour of the perimeter of the downtown. Even in traffic it only takes about 20 minutes. Outside the core is green-space. We get off at North TCE and King William where we can get the Tram to Glenelg. It is rush hour and the tram is jammed. We get all the way with nobody coming to sell us a ticket. Yes, there are free rides at the right time!
The walk to the terminal from the motel is less than 10 minutes. We stop, as usual, at Coles on the way to pick-up supplies. We decide to go to the buffet at the motel restaurant. It has a wonderful variety of food from which I can try lots of “good” food. Unfortunately, the desserts are also great, so I come away waddling, but feeling great. One needs to strike when opportunity presents itself.

A standing-back-sommersault.

Under the bar with a hair's width to spare.

He was just beginning here.


Under the bar with a hair's width to spare.

He was just beginning here.
Tuesday, Jan. 25.
Tomorrow is Australia Day and Coles is advertising a beach set of tank top, short shorts, and flip-flops in the Aussie flag design. On the way to the beach, we stop and I try some on. Peter pretends not to know me as I stand in my bathing suit trying on the pieces. They will be good in Perth and on the beach in Vietnam. We also stop at the I-site and discover that there is a community breakfast on the foreshore for Aussie Day celebrations tomorrow. We will attend.
Peter comes and helps set-up my shade-tent, then goes off to the Internet café. He will return with our lunch (I made earlier) at 1:00. I swim and sun and read. I love being at the beach - just the sound of the waves and the salt water smell. Peter wears his bathing suit when he brings the lunch so we go into the water afterwards. Now he can say he went into the ocean - just. We spend until almost 4 reading and drying off. The clouds have filled the sky and it looks like rain, so we pack-up and return to the motel.
Dinner is left-overs for me and a tuna salad for Peter. Tomorrow is our last day in Adelaide. Staying at Glenelg, by the beach, has been a good move.
The tall condo/hotels on the beach.
My shade tent we bought at South West Rocks.

Camels by the beach at Glenelg.
Tomorrow is Australia Day and Coles is advertising a beach set of tank top, short shorts, and flip-flops in the Aussie flag design. On the way to the beach, we stop and I try some on. Peter pretends not to know me as I stand in my bathing suit trying on the pieces. They will be good in Perth and on the beach in Vietnam. We also stop at the I-site and discover that there is a community breakfast on the foreshore for Aussie Day celebrations tomorrow. We will attend.
Peter comes and helps set-up my shade-tent, then goes off to the Internet café. He will return with our lunch (I made earlier) at 1:00. I swim and sun and read. I love being at the beach - just the sound of the waves and the salt water smell. Peter wears his bathing suit when he brings the lunch so we go into the water afterwards. Now he can say he went into the ocean - just. We spend until almost 4 reading and drying off. The clouds have filled the sky and it looks like rain, so we pack-up and return to the motel.
Dinner is left-overs for me and a tuna salad for Peter. Tomorrow is our last day in Adelaide. Staying at Glenelg, by the beach, has been a good move.

My shade tent we bought at South West Rocks.

Camels by the beach at Glenelg.