Peter and Marilyn

Peter and Marilyn
Christmas in San Jose del Cabo

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Mendoza


Beautiful tree in San Martin square.

The Plaza Espana.


Young musicians performing on pedestrian street.
The small fountain in the main plaza.

The dust covers the usually blue sky.











The doors of our olf-fashioned elevator in Hotel International.
Inside the elevator.





Bottles being corked.





An over-sized bottle of wine at Lopez.











The waiting area at Lopez.






A truck of wine ready to leave Lopez.











The Alpes with fresh snow.










A few bottles for our cellar!













Peter coming up the steps at Zapata.














The new Zapata building on a Mayan temple design.













Enjoying a sparkling wine awaiting the tasting at Zapata.















Norton's new building.


















Some bottles aging, but certainly not being dusted.
















The owner's personal supply, well locked away.



















This area is for the owner to entertain friends.


















Saturday, Nov. 6 - Tues. Nov. 9

Tomorrow we leave Argentina for Chile, so I’ll do the last four days together. Not that Mendoza isn’t one of the nicest places we have been, but because we have done mostly wining here.
We arrive early on Saturday morning, so Peter arranges for our tickets to Santiago while I sit in the sun and watch the luggage. The depot is quiet and nobody seems in a rush. The hostel is clean and our room is large, but our private bathroom is across the hall. What we are not aware of is that our street is the Saturday night party street!
We have received an e-mail from Henry describing the area restaurants that he found good, so we walk over that way and explore. On Sarmiento street, there are not only lots of nice looking restaurants, but a hotel that turns out to be inexpensive, clean, nice staff, and quiet! As luck would have it they are not full. Peter, I know, is already thinking about moving, so, the following morning, after each of us has a fit-full sleep, we check out and check in. It turns out to have been an excellent decision. Thanks for the info, Henry.
We spend Saturday wandering around the many parks and checking on wine tours. Sunday, the winds come in off the mountains! It is the opposite of a Chinook. There is a name for this wind, which I can’t remember, but it feels warm and it fills the air with dust. As the city is filled with tree-lined streets, the place is a mess Sunday night with branches and leaves everywhere. Also, the following day, the temperature drops dramatically. It goes from around 30 C on Saturday to 15 C on Monday. I need a warm sweater for the tour on Monday.
This tour takes us to the Lopez Bodega. It is a very old vineyard, but has grown to be one of the biggest in the area. They only export 5% of their product. They make many levels of wine, from the most common “house” wines to fine, aged wines. Of course, the low-end stuff supports the ability to make premium wines. But, at all the levels, this bodega only uses cork stoppers. Also, they still age their reds in French-oak barrels. As with most of the larger companies in Mendoza, they have vineyards spread out over different areas and at varying altitudes, so their wines can be quite complex. We finish the tour and go to their dining room for lunch. It is four courses and quite wonderful. We start with a pumpkin soup, then a cheese and green onion filled pastry, followed by the main plate of steak with vegetables and roasted potatoes with a tasty sauce, and end with a chocolate pie with ice cream and a bit of sauce. We are ready for a siesta, but we now join a larger group (who arrived for a later tour with no lunch) and visit a smaller bodega and then an olive processor.
Today we are up early for a “private” tour which consists of four wineries we have chosen with the tour company on Sunday, one of which will serve us lunch. Our driver, Walter, is a little late, so we arrive at the first bodega, Zapata, with the tour already in progress. The new building is built in the form of a Mayan temple. It is quite extravagant. The setting is beautiful, with the great picture windows opening to the snow-covered Andes in the distance. The wine is very good, but you have to pay for the tasting. (Which we knew before we went.)
The second winery is the Norton brand. Again, it is a very old company with some 100 year-old vines. They are not as steeped in tradition as the Lopez, but still do consistently good wines. It was recommended that we do lunch here, but it is not included in our “tour” price, but we need to eat so do have lunch. I have a beet, lettuce, cheese, and walnut salad, followed by a spicy roast lamb in pastry main course. Peter ops for the steak with a side salad. Both are wonderful, but, as we have a bottle of wine to accompany the meal, dessert is out of the question!
Our third winery, Alta Vista, is quite a small one, yet the Malbec is the nicest I have tasted, so we get a bottle. I am going to have to resurrect my Peruvian bag to carry it as there is no room in my suitcase. Oh, the troubles I go to for a bottle of wine!
We back out on the fourth bodega, a supposedly interesting owner, but we are both tired - I think the meal and all the wine didn’t help - and we return to our hotel happy.
Unfortunately, when we go to get Peter’s pants from the laundry - our luck changes. Yesterday, when we went to get our laundry, Peter was walking through the mega-grocery store to pick up some water and fruit, when an employee dropped a bag of something liquid into a basket. Unfortunately, the top popped-off and the liquid splashed onto Peter’s pants and hand. When he got to me and showed me the stain, I couldn’t tell what it was but it looked like some kind of grey oil. Anyway, to make a long story short, the company let us bring the pants to the laundry place to see if they could clean the stain, which they could not after five tries today. The Carrefour people found Peter an “almost as good but more expensive” pair of pants to replace they ones that are now stained and unusable. Now it will be my job to hem another pair of pants. I just did the stained ones when we first arrived in Buenos Aires!
We don’t have a lot of plans after Santiago, Chile, though we would like to go to the lake country. I think we will go to a travel agent and see what they suggest. The guide books are not very helpful. Chow!

Buenos Aires

A mall off Florida street.

The ceiling.



A store I can't afford.

Cafe Tortoni on Avenue de Mayo.
The dinner show area.



The Tango.







The dancers after the show. Kuly is on the left. The great tango dancer is second from the left.







These huge trees are all around town.







This is a stainless steel flower that opens during the day.






My hair stylist, Jorge Luis.











Our window at the Mundial: the one on the top, left.









The tango painting in the second floor lobby.












An art lesson in La Boca.












Finally, we find a Canadian flag.











Domingo Agnese playing the bandoneon.














The old bridge in La Boca that the little artists were drawing next.

















Wednesday, Oct. 3
A day of falling in love.
My appointment to get my hair coloured and cut and to have a pedicure is at 12 noon. Being Canadian, I arrive early. Jorge Luis is cutting a lady’s hair, so we smile a greeting and I pull out my book and read while I wait. Between regular clients arriving for cuts and friends just to chat, Jorge gets to me at 12:45. Of course, he does not do the pedicure or colour, so the pedicure lady begins on my toes. The colour lady is busy finishing a hair straightening. In breezes another young lady who needs a straightening, so she gets done. Finally, the colouring begins, and the dye is to remain, normally, 30 minutes. But, of course, when the 30 minutes are up, the pedicure lady is at such a stage that we can’t interrupt her. So, the dye stays on an hour - which doesn’t seem to make a difference as the colour is fine. Now, Jorge is in the middle of a cut, and then a conversation with a client/fiend, so he begins my cut at 1:45! The result is, I have nice soft feet and tidy toe nails, hair that is no longer white at the roots, and a hair cut I love. So, Jorge gets my thanks, and he is my first love of the day.
We wander the downtown and have a rest before our 7:30 dinner reservation at Café Tortoni. The atmosphere is very intimate in the cellar of this famous café. The dinner is okay, nothing to write home about, but the Tango show is great. The master of ceremonies and singer is Gabriel Dominguez and he is so expressive you forget you don’t understand the words. One of the couples captivate me and I watch them instead of the others. In the middle is a folklore dance by Kuly Gomez, and I am in love for the second time today. Kuly has so much energy and his feet tap so quickly it is captivating. Anyway, I am glad we have chosen a small venue for the performance as there are lots to choose from in Buenos Aires.
Once we leave the café after taking pictures in the main café, I spy the dancers, especially Kuly and the other great dancer that I enjoyed, sitting on the curb by the building resting and smoking before their second show. Yes, they kindly stand so we can get a picture and I get to kiss the two stars! A perfect ending to a perfect day.

Thursday, Nov. 4.
Today is to be museum day and there is no rush to get mobile. Unfortunately, all the guide books gush over the MALBA museum and we have missed the free Wednesday, but we venture on the bus, get off too early, and walk a bit to get there. Wrong! I am an art lover, but this private collection would be better kept private and not cost 20 pesos each to get in. Afterwards, we figure the investment of the day is worth the expense, but we wish the money was to support El Belles Artes.
After a short visit at MALBA, we walk over to El Belles Artes, which is the free art museum of the state, and we both enjoy it very much. I skip the final modern art section as I do not want to lose the excitement of the earlier stuff. The pieces start with examples of art from 300 b.c. The early paintings and sculptures are extraordinary, but the impressionists are my favourites! Besides the Rembrandts and the Robins, there is a series of Degas’ dancers, Cezanne pencil sketches, Renoir still-lives, and Monets. I think I am ready to leave Buenos Aires, but of course, only after completing the evening with a pizza from El Continental. (Half becomes tomorrow’s breakfast.)

Friday, Nov. 5. Happy Birthday, Patrick
Douglas - Hope # 15 was a great day on the 1st.
This is our final few hours as our bus to Mendoza leaves at 8:55 tonight.
We return to La Boca as Peter saw a shirt there he wishes to purchase. Everyone will get to see it when he wears it to the golf course next summer. We take a stroll to the football stadium and around the area back towards the tourist streets. As we approach the harbour, a young man approaches and, I finally understand, warns us to turn right at the corner because it is dangerous to go in the other direction! We thank him and follow his advice.
We take the city bus back to the hotel, with a short stop on the way for a final “super” dulce de leche ice cream cone, but this time I try a scoop of the very dark chocolate as well. I would love to bring some dulce de leche home but there is no room in my suitcase or in my diet!
The bus depot is amazing! There are seventy-five gates for buses. We are told that our bus will leave from one of five gates so you need to watch the board. We find a quiet place to sit, and Peter periodically checks the board. With fifteen minutes to departure, or bus is not yet posted, so we go downstairs to the area near the five gates and stand, shoulder to shoulder with the other 200 people in this area. With five minutes until departure, just as our bus rolls in, the gate number is posted. But, the people need to get off the bus and retrieve their luggage as we need to put on our luggage and get on the bus! Everyone knows how Peter loves crowds, so it was not a pretty sight. The interesting thing we discovered was that, amid all the so called confusion, the system works extremely well and we are soon on our way.
It is the usual bed, dinner, night-cap, and breakfast deal, all while you are getting to your destination. Tomorrow, Mendoza.