Peter and Marilyn

Peter and Marilyn
Christmas in San Jose del Cabo

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Whitianga to Gisborne

Thursday, Dec. 9.

Because we were tired, we passed on the famous mineral hot springs resort last night, but go to the local museum before leaving town. This is where Cook first landed in N.Z. It is the most amazing place. Nicely set out and informative. We spend two hours enjoying this little gem.
As we left we met another Canadian couple from Montreal. They came to Canada from France, but have lived in Canada for thirty years. The wife is having trouble understanding the New Zealand English.
It is a rainy day and we are too early for the low tide at the hot water beach, so we carry on over the windy roads until we once again get to the ocean at Waihi where I get the chance to walk on the beach. It is now low tide and it is talcum-powder sand but packed as solid as a roadway. There are too many shells to choose from. I select three and then stop looking.
We stop at Katikati and walk the main street to see the murals. We complete the less than 150 kilometres and it is almost five o’clock when we roll into the motel in Tauranga. We decide to eat in, so we have soup with toast.

Friday, Dec. 10.

We have a straight run to Gisborne today, across the peninsula. I get to drive for the first time. It is fine except that I don’t use the inside mirror to check the distance when I have passed a vehicle and am going back to my side. We have lunch on the way in a lovely valley at one of the many picnic tables provided everywhere.
We get to Gisborne in time to visit the museum there. As we only have an hour, we see only one area. There is an art gallery and another two sections which we don’t get to. The museum closes at 4 p.m. This is quite normal in N.Z. outside of the big cities. Even businesses close between four and five each day.
From the museum we drive to the lookout from which you can see the confluence of the Taruheru and the Waimata rivers into the Turanganui river - the shortest river in N.Z. which just travels a few hundred yards into Poverty Bay.
Finally, we find a restaurant with lamb shank on the menu. It is absolutely delicious and I have enough for dinner again tomorrow night.

Far side: A visitor as we eat lunch in the car.


Middle: Open pit mining in town centre
of Waihi.



Waihi Beach at low tide.



Sculpture in Katikati.










Murals in Kaikati.























Kiwi World in Te Puke, Kiwi fruit capital.

Lunch on the road.








Typical winding road.









Lots of grapes as we approach Gisborne.













View of the beachfront at Gisborne from the lookout.










Where the rivers meet.













Canoeing practice on the river at Gisborne.













This yellow bush is in bloom all around this area.
















First days in New Zeland

Tuesday, Dec. 7.

Having lost Monday as we crossed the International Dateline, I awake at 5:30 a.m. on Tuesday, Dec. 7, listening to Leonard Cohen on my headset, scrunched in my little centre seat on an Air New Zealand 747 high above the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, it is 2:30 a.m. N.Z. time! I will have some time to wait until we land at 7:30.
The whole airport experience is familiar. This time we take the time to buy a bottle of liquor at the duty free. I stand guard with all the luggage while Peter investigates the refund for the flight to Australia which we had to book in order to be admitted to the country. Obviously, they don’t want a couple more old fogies in the country permanently. He also gets our rental car, so we are off on the wrong(?) side of the road. Actually, driving on the left is not the problem. The problem arises when you want to turn and you flick your windshield switch instead of your turn signal! Everyone knows you’re a foreigner as you drive on a beautiful sunny day with your windshield wipers going.
We do not go into Auckland, but stay near our motel - Peter has his first meat & cheese pie - we wander through a lovely shopping mall and buy basics for breakfasts and lunches - we take a wrong turn and almost end up in the city - we eat dinner at the motel next door, pumpkin soup for me, - Peter passes-out at 8:30 (actually 11:30 our time) and I write the blog. When I awaken with my head on the desk, I know it is time for me to retire also.
We start south towards Wellington tomorrow taking the road around the Coromandel peninsula.

Wednesday, Dec. 8.

Breakfast is provided today, but in our overtired-state yesterday we do not read the fine print. It comes at a $15 price each. Welcome to N.Z. prices. We had better get used to them as they get worse in Australia.
We take the highway south to the bottom of the Firth of Thames, then head onto the narrow, two-lane highway to the city of Thames. As there is throughout N.Z., there is a lovely picnic area sponsored by the Rotary club just on the edge of the water. We have our lunch and carry on to Coromandel. This area of N.Z. has great stands of the New Zealand Christmas trees, more properly called the pohutukawa tree. It has the most gorgeous, deep scarlet blossoms which bloom this month. They often grow on cliffs and overhang the highway.
We do our first “tourist” activity and ride the Driving Creek railway. This little gem goes switch backing up the “mountain” on a sixty-acre piece of land the potter, Barry Brickell, bought thirty-two years ago. He began building the narrow-gauge railway to bring clay down from the hill to his studio. Once he started, he just kept adding to the project. Now, there are viaducts, tunnels, and reversing points (like we experienced going to Aqua Calientes / Machu Picchu). The view from the Eyefull tower at the top is quite spectacular. On the grounds, they have now planted thousands of kauri trees to help bring the land back to its original, pre-colonial form.
I will not bore you with this again, but a warning to anyone coming to N. Z. - bring a strong stomach or bring Graval! The run from Coromandel to Whitianga (pronounced f - itianga) brought back the memories of the churning stomach if you are not the driver. Think the worst part of Pass Creek road repeated for over an hour - up - down - around - swoop - around - up - down. Up-chucking is so common on the N.Z. roads that it is featured in one of their holiday ads on the television where one scene is the car parked at a pull-out with the doors open and the two kids throwing-up. I just love the N.Z. sense of humour.
We spend the night at Whitianga. We have found a chilly-bin (otherwise know as a cooler) so we are set for our adventure on the east coast.









Rotary park and shelter in Thames.
Middle: pohutukawa trees in bloom for Christmas.

Top right: Our first motel near Auckland.
You have to "give way" if you see red on the left at single-lane bridges.










At the Driving Creek railroad.
Above: retaining wall made of wine bottles.
A Barry Brickell pottery person.







The toilet walls/windows, from the outside and inside.
Those are wine bottles set in clay.














The train goes onto a platform/bridge, the driver goes to the back, changes the switch, and we are off backwards on the new track.







One of the three tunnels.













The Eyefull tower.










Inside the Eyefull tower.










Peter beside the very narrow-gauge train track.
















Our motel in Whitianga.





























Monday, December 6, 2010

Correction! Sleepless in Auckland

Tuesday, Dec. 7

I've had five hours sleep in the past 40 hours, so my apology for the Nov. 29/30 post which should be "From Nazca back to Lima" - or something of that sort.

We start on the road tomorrow, winding our way down the east coast to Wellington on the 13th - Andy's birthday.

Last days in Lima and home to Canada, briefly.

Wednesday, Dec. 1
Lynda and Mark are off to Mexico. I bet it is warmer there than here in Lima.
We are very happy at the Miraflores Lodge, especially as Ruben has checked his records and yes we have been double-billed and yes he will give us a refund for the third night that we are not going to use. We can’t pack until we get our clothes from the laundry, so, after our scrumptious breakfast buffet, we walk to the mall by the ocean and do some window shopping. We still have a couple of things to pick-up, but will do it on our way home from downtown later. On the way back to the hotel, we stop by the laundry at 10:30 as marked on the slip. We ring the bell, we call, we ring the bell again, but whomever is working is not wanting to come to serve us. We walk the half-block to the hotel and amuse ourselves until 11, the time she said the stuff would be ready. On our return at eleven, Peter finds the girl next door talking with the hairdresser who has no clients. She rushes in the back and tells us the stuff will be ready in the afternoon. I tell her we have a flight in the afternoon to return to Canada (a little lie, but we want to get packed!) She retrieves a shirt of Peter’s from the drier and shows us that it is not yet dry. When will it be dry? Well, half an hour. So, it is back to the hotel and, finally, at about 11:45 our stuff is all neatly folded in a plastic bag and we can continue our day.
After fitting everything in our littlish bags, we put them in a storage room and head downtown. It is about 15 minutes to the rapid-transit bus that runs down the centre of the highway right through Lima. For the first, and only, time the system is overflowing with riders. We are squeezed onto the bus. Immediately, a man standing by the fold-up/down seats for the handicapped and old, puts the chair down, moves over, and gives me a seat. I don’t feel old, and I know I have some handicaps but they aren’t visible, but I just graciously thank him and get to sit the twenty minutes into the centre of town. This is the only South American city where the men were so polite.
We wander along the downtown pedestrian street, looking in shops but not buying much. We stop for lunch at an outdoor terrace of a restaurant, but only have a beer as our breakfast feast is still digesting - and I have to get weighed on Friday. The trip back is uneventful and the bus less crowded. I take a picture of the rapid-transit station in the central station. It is quite empty, but still the floors are gleaming. I have to use the washroom before getting the bus and it, also, is spotlessly clean with toilet paper available.
We do our final shopping in Miraflores and find spaces where none exist to pack the last few items. Dinner is once again at the Cortez, the little place around the corner. I order an appetizer I think I can share with Peter and it is just okay - a won ton roll with a bit of cheese onside. But, once again, the soup - this time “diet” chicken - is good. Peter stuck with the chicken and a salad. Yes, Peter is eating salads these days.
The “private taxi” which the hotel uses to shuttle people (for $20) to the airport is not only new, shiny, and clean, but the driver is spiffed-up and a real pro as he swerves and dodges through the incredible traffic. It is forty-five minutes to the airport with virtually no signage to get you there. It is a well-spent twenty dollars.
All goes well with check-in. Yes, we will have to collect our bags in Miami and then put them back into the system, but they are checked through to Vancouver. Unfortunately, there is a delay of the flight. We sit is at the gate as the delay is extended. Our two and a half stop-over in Miami is dwindling. Finally, we are all loaded on the plane and still we sit. By the time we taxi out to the runway we are one and a half hours late. Our turn-around time in Miami is now one hour! If we miss our connection, I miss the Leonard Cohen concert that is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for me. Right here I would love to swear, but there is simply nothing I can do so I think I will just go to sleep and hope for the best. I ask Peter not to disturb me for food if they serve any and I’m out like a light until just before we start the decent into Miami. It is now….

Thursday, Dec. 2.
The day we are supposed to arrive in Vancouver around 2 p.m. and I am supposed to go to the concert of the century.
Not to be. Buy the time the plane spends fifteen minutes getting to its dock and we spend fifteen minutes walking to were you pick-up your luggage and the fifteen minutes we wait for our luggage, we now have no time to go through customs and get ourselves back through security to the gate. In fact, we don’t even know where the gate is as we are changing from American Airlines to Alaska. When we arrive at the Alaska desk there are only workers there and they confirm that our plane is gone! We are too weary, and I am to disappointed, to get unset. The staff are wonderful and put Peter through to a lady who spends most of an hour with him on the phone getting us alternative flights to Vancouver. We are booked back on A.A. through Houston and will arrive in Vancouver at 8:05 p.m. if nothing goes wrong. Luckily, while Peter is rebooking us, I get the computer going and phone Patrick on Skype - and get him out of bed at 6 a.m. Pacific time - it is 9 a.m. in Miami. He will contact Douglas to inform him of my problem and tell him to find someone who would like to go and use my ticket. As it turns out, a friend of Willow’s grandmother, with whom I was to go, will use the ticket. I’m happy that this has been arranged.
The trip back is fairly uneventful. In two months, I have left a book on an airplane in Mendoza, I have left my Tevas in Pucon or Temuco or Puerto Varas, and Peter has left his cheap water-bottle on the bus coming into Lima. So when we hear the announcement in the Houston airport for Peter Johnstone to come “somewhere” - we don’t hear clearly - we figure it is something left again. Peter asks at the volunteer-helper desk and they tell him to use a courtesy phone to call the airline. Nobody at Alaska knows what the announcement is about, so we figure maybe there is another Peejay. We have a five-hour lay-over, so we continue filling our time. As I get back from my power-walk, Peter is searching his pockets and he asks me when was the last time we had our passports . Yes, you smart people have guessed the climax! Now another, slightly more desperate and anxious announcement comes on clearly stating Peter’s name and the gate to which he is to report. I am relieved because it is obvious that somebody has found his passport. When he returns, he says the lady has a sense of humour and has told him his passport almost went to Paris without him. That is where the plane was scheduled to go next. We walk across to the bar and Peter has a way too expensive beer.
We are in business class to Vancouver from Houston, so we have a couple of drinks on the flight. We are mellow and relieved when we enter the airport and find Antigone waiting to drive us home. Well, not quite home. We drive first to the New West. curling club to say hi to Patrick, watch a few ends of his game, and then home to a comfortable bed and a good night’s sleep. We have two days in Vancouver before it is onward and upward (or is it downward) to New Zealand.



The Rapid-transit bus stop in downtown Lima.



Peter hits the wall.

That's us ready to start again from Vanouver to Auckland.

This last picture is a gentleman in Lima who is running for president in the 2011 election.

Leaving Nazca and back in Nazca

Monday, Nov. 29

We leave the lovely Oasis hotel early, as usual. We like to be in lots of time. Rosa has been incredibly helpful. Although it is a little ways from downtown, it is a wonderfully relaxing place to stay.
The security fellow gets all our pictures on video before the bus departs. We have the nice, big downstairs’ seats this time. There are only five of us down here. Of course, the seats are sold to passengers getting on farther down the line. As usual, we are fed a very passable meal.
I can’t believe how far north in Peru the desert extends. There are small pockets of green where arroyos or above-ground rivers flow through the valleys, but otherwise there is nothing - absolutely nothing - but dirt and rocks. As with the Nazca lines, some companies use the side of mountains to draw a long-lasting advertisement in the dirt.
It is dark when we arrive in Lima. We taxi back to the Miraflores Lodge and this driver actually has an idea where it is. Other than the fact we have been double-billed for our first stay here, everything is lovely. The owner, Ruben, bought a large, eighty-year-old house and added an extension on the back with a courtyard in the center. The rooms are simply, but tastefully decorated and the bathrooms are spotless. He also has rooms in the main house. The included breakfast buffet is even better than the one at the Holiday Inn. Ruben will check in the morning about the double billing and, yes, we will not pay this time, and he needs the room as they are full so we can cancel the last night and just leave our bags there the last day and come in to change for the long flight home. He will give Peter the a cash refund for that last night.
Ruben recommends a restaurant just around the corner for our dinner. I have Peruvean soup which turns out to be very tasty. Although it is a proper indoor reataurant with a front-terrace area, it reminds me of Jesus’. There are four tables of diners and, obviously, they do not have enough ingredients in the kitchen. The helper is given some money, disappears, and returns in ten minutes with two grocery bags of stuff! Although the service is slow, the meal is delicious. We go to bed contented.

Tuesday, Nov. 30.
We decide to do a final laundry. Ruben recommends one just around the corner. The lady says we can pick it up the following morning at 11. We say we need it earlier, so she writes 10:30 on the slip. Later, we see the young man from the hotel dropping off towels from the hotel, so, obviously, they use this lavadoria.
We plan to visit a museum so we ask Ruben which is closer, the National museum or the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera. He says neither is close, but he would highly recommend that if we have to choose, we should go to the Larco. We take his advise and grab a taxi on the street (there are hundreds of thousands of them in Lima) and it does take close to half an hour to get to the museum. But what a place! Rafael Larco Herrera was an archaeologist from a very wealthy family and over his lifetime he put together the collection in this museum. The building itself is a huge mansion on an estate in the middle of town. As we walk towards the entrance to the building, there are three or four very substantial, well-dressed gentleman milling about. Each has an earpiece. You know right now that they are guarding somebody! We ask the girl at the desk and she says that the wife of one of the government ministers is visiting the museum. As in Mexico, these people do need protection from kidnapping. Fortunately, it does not interfere with our visit.
There is a foundation that now takes care of the museum and it is not cheap to get in, but well worth every penny. You can get a guide, but the people with guides are in and out within an hour. We are captivated for close to three hours. Everything is displayed beautifully. I don’t take pictures within as the sign says you shouldn’t. The written commentary is in five languages. I don’t know about the French, German, or Japanese, but the English is well translated from the Spanish. As we are leaving we see another few interconnected rooms. Within these are floor to ceiling glass-enclosed shelves where the underplayed collection is stored. Thousands of pieces organized and catalogued. You have to marvel at the amount of artefacts collected.
The grounds of the estate are beautifully manicured. There is a restaurant in the building and about thirty, richer than average, guests are having lunch. From the prices of articles in the shop, we forgo the need to ask for a menu at the restaurant and leave to have lunch elsewhere.
The regular guard by the door to the grounds asks us if we need a taxi. When we say yes, he calls to “Paco” who appears to be snoozing on a bench in the park and this is to be our driver. He has wisps of hair sticking up and only two teeth that happen to be the center-top ones. He rushes us to a somewhat battered car. As it turns out, he has a good command of Spanglish and he gives us a tour-guide commentary all the way back to Miraflores. He offers to take us, another time, to the garment section of the city, that is too dangerous for us to go to alone, where we can buy everything at extremely discounted prices. We pass on the offer, but Peter gives him a generous tip for the informative drive back.
We remain in Miraflores, touring the many “artisan” shops - referred to as tourist junk in Mexico - to get a feel for prices and items we might like to take home as gifts. Dinner is pizza - we never did get lunch - and home to pack as tomorrow we have to pack, go for a last wander downtown, change, and head to the airport for our midnight flight. Just one more day in South America. The time has passed quickly, as it always does as you come to the end of a journey.

The "pets" at the Oasis resort in Nazca.

The "waterfalls" end of the pool in Nazca.








Our room is on the right in the centre building.


Our bus to Lima.

An advertisement in the dirt.










Pictures of nothingness!





Somebody has planted miles of little saplings.










The northern view from the cliff in Miraflores,






The southern view.















The dining room in the Miraflors Lodge.




The courtyard.

















The courtyard looking towards the extension.












Walking up to the Largo Museum.











The front entrance.




















Owl cups probably 1000 years old.













One of the storage rooms.