Peter and Marilyn

Peter and Marilyn
Christmas in San Jose del Cabo

Saturday, October 23, 2010

La Paz






















Photos:
Wiring in the street! Can you make sense of it, Lorne?;

Typical stall in the Witches' Market;

Llama fetus (for good luck) in the Witches' Market;

Downtown.

View from the Mirador we walked to.

Monday, Oct. 18.

Before starting our day, we drop our laundry at the front desk. It will be ready tonight, by 10. It turns out to be very well done, nice white whites, neatly folded, but cost way more than we were expecting. I’m happy because it is done!
We walk uphill to get our tickets, and the lady there suggests we walk to where we are going to get the city tour bus. She says it is almost all flat on the way. She also suggests that if we have time, we should go to the mirador as it is a nice park and an excellent view of the city.
We go downhill to the hotel, then our walk takes us about fifty minutes as at this high-altitude strolling is a fast pace. We walk by the University building which is a high-rise with a plaza in front. We find a corkscrew to replace the one we broke a couple of days ago. It is amazing how small finds in a big city can be so satisfying! We make the turn to the mirador (lookout for those who don’t get the joke), yes, it is more uphill. It makes Park Hill look flat! and it goes about twice as high. The park is lovely with large shade trees and a lovely view. There is a small chapel here which is probably built over an original indigenous peoples’ worship site, as most of the Spanish Catholic churches are so placed.
After a little rest, it is downhill again, this time one must take care not to slip and fall as the grade is so steep.
We arrive for our bus about an hour early and have one of the best times just sitting and watching the world rush by. We entered The Ritz hotel - serious 5 star - to ask about our tour bus stop and are hustled out as the handsome young bell hop if full regalia shows us where it is.
We walk to the opposite side of the traffic circle, dodging traffic to get across two streets, and find a wooden bench meant as a waiting place. In front of us is the moving stop of the thousands of mini-busses that serve as a major form of transportation. The destinations of each bus is painted on the windshield and is often accompanied by someone yelling the destinations in the hope of attracting passengers. As they pull in towards the side of the road (sometimes just stopping in traffic) a passenger or two appear to fall out of the vehicle almost simultaneously as the others jam themselves inside. Every strata of society appears to use these vans. We are absolutely fascinated.
Finally the bus arrives, and although we are glad we took the trip as it takes us to one of the highest miradores in town, it confirms our belief that La Paz is a city that is falling apart from lack of repairs. I took a picture of the wiring system, so I hope it will download well so you will get a feeling for the place. Yes, many of the buildings are old, but many are only one hundred years old and some, like the skyscrapers are quite new, yet all appear to be falling apart. It makes the downtown Eastside of Vancouver look normal.
For dinner, the hotel has recommended Luna & Sol. It is only two blocks uphill. We look in and realize that we are forty years older than the eldest person there. Peter wants to check out a hostel on the next uphill street, so we mount the stairs and take a look. We decide to return to the restaurant for dinner and are not disappointed. I have a nice, spicy roti and Peter has a fillet, we share a bottle of water, and each have a large glass of wine. All this for the equivalent of $30 Canadian.
If you are getting tired of the ups and downs, so are we! Also, Peter is definitely getting the flu or something. He is lacking appetite, and having some problems getting enough air. I think it is a bit of altitude sickness without the headache. I am looking forward to finally feeling warm as we move from the mountains and la pampa.
Tomorrow we begin a twenty-four hour trip by bus and train to the first hole-in-the-wall place (if you don‘t count Copacabana) - La Quiaca, Argentina.

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