Lima & Cusco

Wednesday, October 6

We have arrived in Cusco after a hurried visit to Lima. We will have a few days there next month and hope to see some of the museums.
Monday, we spent time on new Express bus system into the downtown area. For 3 soles ($1.20) we went return to downtown from Miraflores. It is so new that even the locals are asking for help at the stations! The bus travels down the centre lane of an expressway, with walkovers to stations every few miles. They have advertisements in plants along the edge of the expressway. We saw gardeners trimming the plants to keep the “writing” tidy. It is amazing what you can do with cheap labour.
Near our station and on the "wrong side" of the highway, there is a central market that makes the one in San Jose look like a Safeway. In the meat area, there is every part of an animal displayed. Obviously, they eat everything. We noticed from the menus in a few restaurants that liver is an everyday part of the diet. We bought some fruit and, near the market, we found an mini-mercado that had good prices on beer and wine. The owner assured us we would pay more in the upscale area where we are staying - on the right side of the tracks.
As the municipal elections were on Sunday, no liqueur was allowed to be sold until after noon on Monday. Well, as one waitress said in a restaurant - no beer because it comes in bottles, but other drinks are served in cups. Sounds like Mexico.
We walked by the Justice building, a huge, very imposing structure and there was a red carpet down the front steps. Peter asked a young man who was guarding an entrance why it was there. He said that the newly elected mayor (Presidente) would be arriving. Unfortunately, he or she was late so we didn’t stay to watch.
Everyone dodges traffic here and we are getting pretty good at it. Luckily, most streets are one way, so you need look only in that direction. Otherwise, the drivers are very law-abiding as they all seem to buckle-up and you don’t see them talking on cell phones. Of course, they would be taking their lives in their hands if they did because they drive at excessive speeds, dodge in and out, and blow their horns incessantly.
In the evening, we looked at the artisan’s stands in Kennedy (of John fame) park and found a nice little place for dinner. I had my first pisco sour and I’m hooked.
Tuesday, we awoke to a herd of French-Canadians trudging down to breakfast. Afterwards, they viewed a video of Machu Picchi. We never saw them again, so we assume they pushed on.
After leaving our dirty stuff at the laundry and having breakfast, we headed back to el central to see the changing of the guard at the Presidential (of the country) Palace. There was a marching band, much straight-leg kicks by the guards (German style), and much pomp. There were way more Peruvians there than foreigners, so it is something quite special. It lasted over 30 minutes. We did get some good pictures. Peter and I posed with a shield-carrying army fellow who was part of the group keeping people across the street. There is a huge army and police presence, but they are friendly.
On a typical cheap-store street, I managed to buy two warm pullovers for the equivalent of $5 each. Finally I will be warm! Peter needed some relief, so we popped into the Bolivar Grand Hotel which serves high-tea and must have been spectacular in its day. I will post a picture of the atrium.
When we finally got home there was a message that we had just missed Nancy, Rosa’s mother, by fifteen minutes in the morning. As Peter was going out to pick-up the laundry, she arrived back. It was so thoughtful of her to come all this way. She does not live anywhere near Miraflores! We had a nice chat and she told me that Rosa is returning to Lima in January to wed her Canadian fiancée. Nancy is quite excited. We all went to dinner. I got to try authentic Peruvian fare. The appetizer was a yucca dish with a special dipping sauce. The main course was cuy (whole guinea pig - I let Nancy eat the head). For dessert we had something like a pudding made with sweetened-condensed milk and topped with whipped cream. Luckily we shared everything except the dessert. Peter had a bit of the appetizer, but then just had lasagne. We were somewhat late to bed considering we had to be up by 4:30 this morning.
Today, I have been drinking coca tea, chewing coca leaves, and taking our medication for altitude sickness. Hope it works. As Cusco is very hilly, you do go up the hills slowly. I am trying to consciously walk at a slower pace. Our hotel is connected to an old church and was a convent in past. There appears to be very few, if any, people staying here. We will see at breakfast as it is included.
I posted 10 pictures, but that whole posting got lost. The computer went off unexpectedly, and tat may have been the cause. Because picutes take so long to download, I will re-post them tonight. If anyone can instruct me on how to get a tag on the pictures, I would appreciate it.
Be back later.
I may or may not get this posted tonight as I am very tired. I will download some pictures and finish-up in the morning.